Fallon Rowe is an experienced climber looking to level up her climbing performance this season with the goal of sending her first 5.13. In this third part of the training series, we are jumping into her training plan designed by Leif Gasch (SUBSTR8 Climbing Performance). Using the Force Board as a training tool, Fallon will be completing an on and off the wall training regimen to reach her goals.
In this video, Matt Cupal sits down with Fallon and Leif to discuss her specific goals and talk through the basics of putting a training plan together.
Fallon is an athlete who has faced numerous injuries in her climbing career and she continues to battle staying healthy with diagnosed POT's disease. She recently had ankle surgery and clarifies with Leif that this is something that they will have to work around. Leif is optimistic and says, “there are lots of ways to train around injuries" climbing is a fundamentally a skill sport, but we can identify weaknesses and grow in numerous ways.
Fallon's big goals for the Spring of 2024 are:
- Send her first 5.13 (she has sent 52 5.12's)
- Complete an 15 pitch route in El Potero Chico called El Sendero Luminoso
For reference, here is a video from The North Face of Alex Honnold climbing the route: (copyright The North Face)
To address these goals Leif recommends a long-term focused approach to avoid injury and promote longevity in Fallon's climbing.
Leif hits on a few key points in the training plan that will outline her overall training volume. He suggests 25% of the training will be dedicated strength training and notes that there are many fantastic ways to train strength on the wall including static and dynamic specific training. Leif also recommends a focus on power endurance and developing a robust aerobic energy system to prepare for those big objectives like El Sendero Luminoso.
The conversation shifts towards a review of the Peak Force & Critical Force Assessments Fallon completed in Part 2 of the training series. Fallon's assessment showed a standard strength to skill ratio in her peak force analytics and this means she can improve her climbing in fairly equal parts of strength and skill.
Leif touches on some of his strength training insights. He is a big fan of posterior chain strength for things like on-the-wall tension, and horizontal pulling for a climbing-specific approach to pulling strength. Leif also dives into some finger strength protocols he recommends for Fallon based on her goals and her history of injuries. Leif is an advocate for developing adaptations and resiliency using the Force Board as opposed to heavy max hangs for strength, and Fallon agrees that this is important to her and her long term goals.
One important thing Leif highlights toward the end of the conversation is the need for consistency in training. Life will certainly get in the way and Leif is understanding of the variables like sleep, work, and school that can make training difficult. He recommends that Fallon listens to her body, and rests when she needs too.
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Take a look at some training logs from Fallon and Leif below:
SUBSTR8 TRAINING LOG FROM FALLON ROWE:
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Workout Log: Fallon Rowe
Start Date: 2024-10-04
End Date: 2024-10-12
These are the updated sessions Fallon is currently doing. The loads are suggested and vary based on how she's feeling that day but we've got them mostly dialed in at this point - they don't sway much more than about 20% in either direction.
Friday October 4, 2024
Title: Morning Strength 3A
Status: pending
Warmup: Strength/Lifting Warm Up
This warm up gets all the major muscle groups moving and engages the neuromuscular system. A good and scalable warm up for lifting and strength based workouts
A1) Cable Pull Downs: These will be seated on a cable cross machine, we want to isolate the pulling to each side so only pulling with one arm at a time. I also want you to pull straight down, bringing your elbow to your ribs.
Set 1: 5 reps each side w/ 50#
Set 2: 5 reps each side w/ 60#
Set 3: 5 reps each side w/ 60#
Start Date: 2024-10-04
End Date: 2024-10-12
These are the updated sessions Fallon is currently doing. The loads are suggested and vary based on how she's feeling that day but we've got them mostly dialed in at this point - they don't sway much more than about 20% in either direction.
Friday October 4, 2024
Title: Morning Strength 3A
Status: pending
Warmup: Strength/Lifting Warm Up
This warm up gets all the major muscle groups moving and engages the neuromuscular system. A good and scalable warm up for lifting and strength based workouts
A1) Cable Pull Downs: These will be seated on a cable cross machine, we want to isolate the pulling to each side so only pulling with one arm at a time. I also want you to pull straight down, bringing your elbow to your ribs.
Set 1: 5 reps each side w/ 50#
Set 2: 5 reps each side w/ 60#
Set 3: 5 reps each side w/ 60#
A2) Single Arm Floor Press: These can also be done on a bench if you prefer. KB's will work better for this than DB if you're on a bench.
Set 1: 5 reps each side w/ 20#
Set 2: 5 reps each side w/ 20#
Set 3: 5 reps each side w/ 20#
A3) Dragon Flag Progressions: Let's try Candle Raises and single leg lowers today, see how those feel with the boot.
Set 1: 5 reps each side
Set 2: 5 reps each side
Set 3: 5 reps each side
Set 1: 5 reps each side
Set 2: 5 reps each side
Set 3: 5 reps each side
B1) Kneeling One Arm Row: Keep your back flat and don't "start the lawn mower". We want all the pull to be isolated in your arms and lats. Go up in weight if necessary, these should be tough!
Set 1: 5 reps each side w/ 30#
Set 2: 5 reps each side w/ 30#
Set 3: 5 reps each side w/ 30#
Set 1: 5 reps each side w/ 30#
Set 2: 5 reps each side w/ 30#
Set 3: 5 reps each side w/ 30#
B2) Ball Slams: I want you to do these fast! Pull the ball up fast and slam it down fast! The quicker the tempo the better this is for you.
Set 1: 10 reps w/ 15#
Set 2: 10 reps w/ 15#
Set 3: 10 reps w/ 15#
Set 1: 10 reps w/ 15#
Set 2: 10 reps w/ 15#
Set 3: 10 reps w/ 15#
B3) Ab Wheel Roll Outs: Fallon today just roll 1/2 way out (to protect the Trap) and slow the speed down to about 1/2 both out and back. The shorter range of motion should be easier on the shoulders and the tempo will still be a good exercise.
Set 1: 10 reps
Set 2: 10 reps
Set 3: 10 reps
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Sunday October 6, 2024
Title: Power 3
Status: pending
Warmup: This 5 minute warm up is great for both climbing specific and non-climbing specific days.
A) Warm Up Pitch: This should be super chill, big buckets and lots of feet, use open feet, this is all about warming up the central nervous system.
Set 1: 10 reps
Set 2: 10 reps
Set 3: 10 reps
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Sunday October 6, 2024
Title: Power 3
Status: pending
Warmup: This 5 minute warm up is great for both climbing specific and non-climbing specific days.
A) Warm Up Pitch: This should be super chill, big buckets and lots of feet, use open feet, this is all about warming up the central nervous system.
B) Tempo Pitch: This can be another easy pitch but ideally it will be slightly harder than the warm up but not something you're going to fall on. Start a timer and climb it normally, lower and rest as needed. You're going to climb it a second time but this time I want you to try and beat your previous time, even if it's by just a few seconds. Plan ahead, where can you speed up the climbing, where do you need to focus on being diligent and deliberate with your movement?
C) Hard Project Pitch: This is going to need to be adapted of course but I'd like you to try and climb something with big holds, and that's challenging. Again use open feet, we're looking for a lot of upper body pulling. Steeper would be better too so that you can jump and explode off of the good foot.
D) Free Climbing: If time allows and you still feel like you have some "gas in the tank" feel free to just cilmb for fun, but with one condition - no trying anything hard. At this point in the workout you've likely depleated your Lactic energy system reserves enough that max effort climbing won't have any lasting benefit. Plus being tired you won't be exhibiting high levels of skill so keep the intensity below 70%.
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Tuesday October 8, 2024
Title: Morning Strength 3B
Status: pending
Warmup: Strength/Lifting Warm Up
This warm up gets all the major muscle groups moving and engages the neuromuscular system. A good and scalable warm up for lifting and strength based workouts
A1) Single Leg Glute Bridge : If you can do this on both sides great, but obviously don't try if loading that injured foot is going to be an issue. Unlike the video, I want you to keep your toes on the plant foot UP. This isolates the glute and hamstring. The other thing I want you to do is hold it at the top for 5 seconds.
Set 1: 5 reps each side w/ 5 sec hold
Set 2: 5 reps each side w/ 5 sec hold
Set 3: 5 reps each side w/ 5 sec hold
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Tuesday October 8, 2024
Title: Morning Strength 3B
Status: pending
Warmup: Strength/Lifting Warm Up
This warm up gets all the major muscle groups moving and engages the neuromuscular system. A good and scalable warm up for lifting and strength based workouts
A1) Single Leg Glute Bridge : If you can do this on both sides great, but obviously don't try if loading that injured foot is going to be an issue. Unlike the video, I want you to keep your toes on the plant foot UP. This isolates the glute and hamstring. The other thing I want you to do is hold it at the top for 5 seconds.
Set 1: 5 reps each side w/ 5 sec hold
Set 2: 5 reps each side w/ 5 sec hold
Set 3: 5 reps each side w/ 5 sec hold
A2) Horizontal Rows: Rings work best for this exercise but TRX can be substituted. We'll start with your feet elevated and the rings/straps set to a height so that when you're hanging straight armed on them your body is horizontal. Be sure to pull up nice and tight - elbows should come down to your sides and touch your ribs.
Set 1: 6 reps
Set 2: 6 reps
Set 3: 6 reps
Set 1: 6 reps
Set 2: 6 reps
Set 3: 6 reps
A3) Tucked Knee Windshield Wipers: Try and keep your torso as rigid as possible and avoid swinging side to side.
Set 1: 5 reps each side
Set 2: 5 reps each side
Set 3: 5 reps each side
Set 1: 5 reps each side
Set 2: 5 reps each side
Set 3: 5 reps each side
B1) Kettlebell Press: Keep your torso nice and rigid. Try and press as controlled as possible.
Set 1: 8 reps each side w/ 15#
Set 2: 8 reps each side w/ 15#
Set 3: 8 reps each side w/ 15#
Set 1: 8 reps each side w/ 15#
Set 2: 8 reps each side w/ 15#
Set 3: 8 reps each side w/ 15#
B2) Power Push Ups: Pretty simple, just try and push so fast that your hands leave the ground. If that's too hard do these inclined on a bench or low barbell. Keep those elbows within 45º of your body too!
Set 1: 5 reps
Set 2: 5 reps
Set 3: 5 reps
Set 1: 5 reps
Set 2: 5 reps
Set 3: 5 reps
C) Bike Intervals: I want you to do 5 min of finisher sprints on the AirDyne today.
For the first 50 seconds of each minute just row normally, don't push hard. For the last 10 seconds of each minute I want you to row and push as hard as you can.
Min 1) :50 easy/ :10 hard
Min 2) :50 easy/ :10 hard
Min 3) :50 easy/ :10 hard
Min 4) :50 easy/ :10 hard
Min 5) :50 easy/ :10 hard
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Thursday October 10, 2024
Title: Endurance 3
Status: pending
Warmup: This 5 minute warm up is great for both climbing specific and non-climbing specific days.
A) Warm Up Pitch: Another super easy pitch with open feet and big holds, we're just warming up the neuromuscular system.
For the first 50 seconds of each minute just row normally, don't push hard. For the last 10 seconds of each minute I want you to row and push as hard as you can.
Min 1) :50 easy/ :10 hard
Min 2) :50 easy/ :10 hard
Min 3) :50 easy/ :10 hard
Min 4) :50 easy/ :10 hard
Min 5) :50 easy/ :10 hard
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Thursday October 10, 2024
Title: Endurance 3
Status: pending
Warmup: This 5 minute warm up is great for both climbing specific and non-climbing specific days.
A) Warm Up Pitch: Another super easy pitch with open feet and big holds, we're just warming up the neuromuscular system.
B) Back to Backs: These are two pitches done, one right after the other. The difficulty of these can be whatever you like, the only kicker is I want you to try and minimize resting on the routes (and it can be the same route repeated). Easier pitches will be better for this but again, we want to minimize how much you're stopping and resting.
C) Foot Cut Pitch: You might already be climbing like this by default but if not we want to focus on cutting your good foot each move. This needs to be on the steepest section of wall on the biggest holds available. After each hand move, cut your foot and plant it back on the wall (open feet of course). If it's not possible to do this due to setting, try and apply this wherever you can on the pitch.
D) Free Climbing: If time allows and you still feel like you have some "gas in the tank" feel free to just cilmb for fun, but with one condition - no trying max effort climbs. At this point in the workout you've likely depleated your Lactic energy system reserves enough that max effort climbing won't have any lasting benefit. Plus being tired you won't be exhibiting high levels of skill so keep the intensity below 70%.
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Saturday October 12, 2024
Title: Finger Training 3
Status: pending
Warmup: The finger warm up should be no more than body weight pulls. We're just doing 20-25mm edge 1/2 crimp pulls for these:
10 sec @ 80% body weight, rest 50 sec
10 sec @ 90% body weight, rest 50 sec
10 sec @ body weight, rest 50 sec (3x)
Rest for 2-3 min and repeat
A) 7:13 Repeaters: We're using three grips, 1/2 crimp, 3 finger drag, and 2 finger drag. We'll do 6 sets total, 2 of each grip type. We're going to use 7 sec on, 13 sec off for each rep, there's 6 reps each set.
Set 1: 6 reps of 7:13 on 20mm 1/2 crimp @ 155 lbs. - rest 1 min -
Set 2: 6 reps of 7:13 on 3 finger drag @ 149 lbs - rest 1 min -
Set 3: 6 reps of 7:13 on 2 finger drag @ 140
- rest 1 min and repeat all three sets 1x more
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Saturday October 12, 2024
Title: Finger Training 3
Status: pending
Warmup: The finger warm up should be no more than body weight pulls. We're just doing 20-25mm edge 1/2 crimp pulls for these:
10 sec @ 80% body weight, rest 50 sec
10 sec @ 90% body weight, rest 50 sec
10 sec @ body weight, rest 50 sec (3x)
Rest for 2-3 min and repeat
A) 7:13 Repeaters: We're using three grips, 1/2 crimp, 3 finger drag, and 2 finger drag. We'll do 6 sets total, 2 of each grip type. We're going to use 7 sec on, 13 sec off for each rep, there's 6 reps each set.
Set 1: 6 reps of 7:13 on 20mm 1/2 crimp @ 155 lbs. - rest 1 min -
Set 2: 6 reps of 7:13 on 3 finger drag @ 149 lbs - rest 1 min -
Set 3: 6 reps of 7:13 on 2 finger drag @ 140
- rest 1 min and repeat all three sets 1x more