This is the final installment of the Force Board Training Series, featuring SUBST8 Climbing Performance coach Leif Gasch and athlete/coach Fallon Rowe. Catch up on the series by clicking the links below to watch any of the previous videos:
Training Series Part 1: Introduction
Training Series Part 2: Assessment
Training Series Part 3: Training
The Ups and Downs of Fallon's Climbing Journey
Every climber knows that the road to progress isn’t a straight line. It’s filled with peaks of triumph and valleys of struggle. For Fallon, this past season has been a testament to that. She has battled through setbacks and ultimately come out on top in achieving a long-term climbing goal–her first 5.13 climb.
Ankle Injury and Recovery
Not long ago, an ankle injury had sidelined Fallon, limiting what she could do and forcing her to take a step back from time spent on rock.
Despite the setback, Fallon leaned into training off the wall using programming provided by Leif Gasch from Substr8 Climbing Performance and the Force Board system developed by PitchSix. The structured training helped her increase strength while respecting her body’s limitations, including her injured ankle and POTS.
Pushing Through and Staying Motivated
Fallon has a long history with training and strong motivation. As a result, she went into her ankle surgery with good muscle strength. Despite that, time off the wall presented challenges to Fallon’s goal of climbing her first 5.13.
Fallon's training plan was meticulously designed to maintain and build strength while minimizing stress on her injured ankle. With Leif’s guidance, she focused on controlled isometric exercises using the Force Board to improve her pulling strength and overall force output. She incorporated unilateral training, targeting each limb separately to prevent imbalances, and seated hangboard sessions to keep her fingers strong without excessive lower body strain.
To maintain endurance and power, she performed core-intensive workouts and controlled lower-body movements. As the ankle recovered, she added in carefully selected climbing drills that kept her engaged while staying within safe movement patterns. This consistency and intelligent programming not only kept her progressing but also ensured that when she returned to full climbing, she was stronger and more resilient than before.
Her patience paid off. Strength tests revealed a jump in peak force from 201 lbs to 220 lbs, a significant milestone considering the setbacks she had faced. When she finally stepped back onto the rock, she felt it—lighter, stronger, and more in control than before.
Crushing Projects and Finding Confidence
After months of rebuilding, Fallon hit the rock with a vengeance. She didn’t just get back to climbing—she was climbing hard.
One of her biggest triumphs came at “The Underworld”, where she snagged the first female ascent of the burly 5.13a route. From there, momentum built. She made progress on the moves of “Three Bars Black” (5.13a) before travelling to Mexico, where she ticked off multiple 5.12s in a day—a level of consistency she had only dreamed of before.
Of course, there were still challenges. When she attempted El Sendero Luminoso (5.12d), she realized that her ankle wasn’t quite ready for the demands of the route. Instead of forcing it, she took a step back, supported her partner’s send, and focused on the climbs that made sense for her body at the time. That ability to pivot—knowing when to push and when to wait—was just as much a win as any send.
What’s Next?
Now, as Fallon reflects on the journey, she carries more than just stronger fingers and shoulders—she has a new level of confidence. She knows how to train smart, how to trust the process, and how to listen to her body.
The highs and lows of this season have shaped her as a climber. It certainly won’t be a perfect path, but if the past months are any indication, her best is still yet to come.