Part of our "Toes to Knows" Climbing Academy series--covering climbing from footwork to mental preparation.
Tags: Beginner, Coaching
Tying in with a figure 8 knot is the most common way to attach to a climbing rope. The figure 8 is heavily used because it’s easy to tie, is reliable, and is easy to see if the knot is correctly tied. There are better and worse ways to tie the figure 8. Read on to learn what a properly dressed knot looks like and how to finish it the best way.
A Poor Figure 8
Steps to Tie the Figure 8
1. Start with about a 3 foot tail
2. Loop once, fully around the main strand (watch the video to see this in action)
3. Loop through both your leg loops and waist loop
4. Pull the knot close to your harness
5. Follow the rope back through, being careful to not cross strands. A properly dressed knot is stronger and easier to visually inspect.
6. Finish it in a variety of ways
7. Check it!
If you do a Yosemite Finish, go around the main strand and dress it properly