Academy: Dynamic Accuracy Drill
Part of our "Toes to Knows" Climbing Academy series--covering climbing from footwork to mental preparation.
Tags: Advanced, Dyno, Deadpoint
Accuracy during dynamic movements can be critically important. A good example is a dyno to a pocket. It’s really hard to hit the pocket in exactly the right spot to stick the hold. Like everything, practicing accuracy is helpful. In this blog post, we give a drill that lets you practice dynamic movement accuracy without risk of injuring your fingers if you slightly miss a hold.
Accuracy during dynamic movements is always important, but more so when the hold is hard to stick. If you’re dynoing or deadpointing to a flat edge, you can hit the wall above the hold and drag your hand down onto to the hold. In my experience, we hardly even perceive that we’re hitting the wall above the hold. That changes when you try to move dynamically to a pocket or a hold that is blocked above it. You quickly realize that it’s really hard to get you fingers perfectly into a pocket dynamically.
If you dynamically move to a pocket and miss slightly, you run a risk of injury because half-gripped holds put more strain on the fingers. This is especially true if it’s a longer dyno where you’re putting a lot of force on the hold. To reduce this risk of injury, we came up with a different dynamic accuracy drill.
Fold a piece of tape back over on itself and attach it to the wall so it sticks out a bit. Then do a dyno and try to pluck the tape off the wall by pinching it between index finger and thumb. Avoid dragging your hand down the wall from above to grab it. The point is to attempt to accurately pluck the tape off the wall.
This is a fun and useful drill to train dynamic accuracy with minimal risk of hurting yourself.